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Towing Guides

  • Attaching a trailer

    Attaching a Trailer

    Hitching up requires a series of key steps all of which are vital to safely securing your trailer, therefore it’s best to follow a precise routine when hitching and unhitching so that you don’t forget any anything important.

    Firstly, begin by applying the trailer handbrake and wind the jockey wheel to the required height – the trailers hitch should be a little higher than the tow ball hitch on your vehicle. Then back towards the trailer. It’s helpful to have someone to guide you in this instance, but if that’s not possible you can either use something leaned up against the hitching point as a guide, or you might have to get out at points to check where you are in proximity to the neck of the trailer.

    Try to position the vehicle’s ball hitch directly underneath the trailer hitch if the trailer is too heavy to move, if the trailer is light enough backing up close is entirely suitable and you can move the trailer manually if required.

    Ensure that the trailer hitch is unlocked with the handle positioned at a right angle to the neck of the trailer. Use the jockey wheel to lower the trailer hitch onto the tow ball of the vehicle.

    Check your coupling head – some have locking handles that automatically lock onto the ball, others are manual and have to be held, producing an indication to show when the ball is in place.

    Once you think the coupling head is locked on properly, lower the jockey wheel to lift the back of the vehicle to make sure, and after you are satisfied fully raise the wheel, unclamp it and lock it fully raised. This will ensure there is no damage to the wheel during your journey and also that it will not interfere with the coupling overrun mechanism.

    If your trailer has chains to prevent it from becoming detached, then cross them over and attach to the bottom of your vehicle trailer hitch. If it has a breakaway cable instead, attach this to either the special rings some tow bars have, loop it around the bar or around the tow ball neck if there is no alternative. Regardless of whether you are using chains or a breakaway cable, ensure that both have enough slack for cornering, but that neither drag on the ground.

    If your trailer has an eye coupling, ensure that the safety locking catch is on and that the pin is fitted. This makes sure that the trailer doesn’t become unhitched at any point.

    Once the trailer is attached, there are a few checks to be made before starting your journey. Check the lights, break lights and turn signals by attaching the trailers electrical plug to your vehicle’s electrical system. Adjust both external mirrors so that a view down both sides of the trailer can be obtained. (If you can’t see adequately then extension mirrors should be fitted). Check that your load does not exceed the gross maximum weight, and that it is distributed effectively with the correct weight in the nose.

    Once all these steps have been taken you are then good to go – happy towing!

  • How To Stop Snaking

    What is Trailer Snaking?

    Snaking is one of the biggest problems faced when driving on the road with a trailer. It’s caused by the trailer axles moving out of line from the towing vehicle. When this happens the trailer tries to move back in line and goes too far, essentially starting a swinging motion from side to side which can cause you to lose control of the vehicle.


    What Causes Trailer Snaking?

    Snaking can be caused by a number of factors such as:

    • Incorrectly placed loads which unbalances the trailer
    • Strong side winds while driving
    • Very light weight in the nose of the trailer
    • Specially configured trailers which might be incorrectly balanced

    How Do You Prevent Snaking?

    Whilst it’s not possible to completely eliminate the possibility of snaking, there are plenty of steps you can take both before and during your journey to minimise the risks.

    • Set up your trailer so it is level when coupled with the towing vehicle
    • Load the trailer properly so the weight is correctly distributed
    • Ensure there is between 50kg & 100kg weight in the nose of the trailer
    • Make sure tyre pressures are correct
    • Use stabilisers* for high sided trailers
    (*A note on stabilisers)

    Stabilisers are not designed to compensate for poor trailer maintenance, or poor practice in loading and driving while towing. Ensure checks are carried out on any stabilisers fitted before commencing your journey to ensure they are working correctly:

    • Check the stabiliser fits properly into its locating place
    • Check for friction where possible
    • Ensure stabilisers are legally compliant (serviced at least once a year or after 20,000 miles of towing.)

    How to reduce the possibility of snaking while driving

    The best way to lessen the chance of snaking while you’re driving is by driving well – keep to a speed and manner in which you feel comfortable. If you do feel the trailer moving out of line at any point, it’s good to bear in mind the following tips:

    • Keep steering the vehicle in a straight line
    • Change down a gear & take both feet off the pedals; if going downhill then change down a gear and apply gentle pressure to the brakes
    • Don’t accelerate hard, this is unlikely to pull the trailer back in line
    • Don’t break hard – this could cause the trailer to jack knife and then tip
    • Don’t try to steer back into line, this is likely to make the snaking worse

    Whilst snaking is a common problem often encountered during towing, providing you follow good practices whilst setting up your trailer and you keep focus while driving, you’re most likely to get from A to B safe and sound!

  • A Quick and Simple Checklist for Maintaining Your Trailer

    A Quick and Simple Checklist for Maintaining Your Trailer

    The lack of an MOT for a trailer means that the burden of maintaining and repairing is the responsibility of the owner. The consequences of not doing so could result in you getting points on your license or even having your trailer seized!

    Don’t worry though, checking whether your trailer is roadworthy does not take long and it could save you money and stress in the future. Furthermore, it will minimise the risk of your trailer becoming a hazard to other road users.

    Here at ATE-UK we have compiled a handy guide, which should make it easier to assess the condition of your trailer and avoid any unnecessary problems down the line.

    Remember, it is worth checking your trailer each time you head out on the road, as during each journey a new problem could occur. Below are a number of small and quick checks which can be carried out to make sure that everything is running smoothly.


    Start by checking that:

    • All fasteners are secured
    • The tyre pressure is satisfactory
    • The trailer lights are operational
    • The breakaway cable/ secondary coupling chain is functioning
    • The number plate is displayed clearly
    • The load is secure
    • The wheel nuts are tight


    A quick run through this list should provide a useful assessment of whether your trailer is roadworthy. If you leave the maintenance of your trailer for too long, there are a number of risks that can occur and a small issue can snowball into a major and costly problem!

    For instance, the tires of the trailer can perish and the electricals, bearings, and couplings can potentially corrode. Additionally, there is also the risk that the wheel bearings will fail and this could potentially lead to the whole wheel falling off. These issues clearly highlight that it’s better to identify any problems early on.

    If any of this sounds daunting, rest assured that a simple evaluation of your trailer each time you head out will ensure a long and healthy life for your trailer and will save you money too.

  • When is it okay to buy a used trailer?

    When is it okay to buy a used trailer?

    Many second hand trailers end up being scrapped and resold. This is because they are often poorly maintained and the trailers are damaged before they go on the market. If the deal looks too good to be true it usually is, as a well maintained and sturdy trailer will hold its value.

    Poorly maintained trailers can end up eBay and other second hand selling sites to be purchased by buyers who have little idea of the condition of the product they’re buying. It is important that as a buyer you are familiar with the tell-tale signs of when a trailer is not in a good state, so you can make the correct decision on whether to splash the cash.

    This list should help you identify whether the new trailer you’ve found is a bargain or a disaster purchase. Remember an initial cheap purchase could cost you lots of money down the line!

    Viewing is essential:

    The first and most important rule of buying a used trailer is to view it first. This is crucial as a picture can distort how the trailer looks to make it appear better maintained than it actually is. In addition, it could be an old picture that doesn’t reflect what the actual trailer looks like now!

    ID plate:

    Whilst looking at the trailer, check that it has an ID plate. If this isn’t the case, don’t even consider buying the trailer and walk away from the deal. Without an ID plate, it is possible for the trailer to be confiscated by the police.


    Carefully look over the trailer to assess the state of the trailer suspension. Look out for whether the trailer is leaning, whether the wheel is at an angle or if there are any signs of corrosion. This gives a good indication of whether the suspension is in a poor condition. If it is then ATE can replace this for you.


    Only buy a trailer that has galvanised chassis, as these are less susceptible to corrosion. Also, make sure that it doesn’t look as if wielding has been carried out, as this suggests that the trailer has been repaired at some point. Chassis are the foundations of your trailer, if there seems to be a worry then you can contact us and we will be more than happy to supply you with a new trailer chassis.


    If your trailer requires brakes, make sure these are all in working order before purchasing. It goes without saying that the trailer brakes are one of the most important parts. If these do not work correctly, you will be in a heap of trouble. Always check the brakes when you are purchasing a new trailer as it could be costly if they are faulty.


    Be sure to check that the wheels are not damaged or worn before you are purchasing any type of trailer second hand. You need to remember that even if it is second hand the trailer needs to be road legal. If it is not, it could be your licence that is lost alongside your investment. Ensure that your trailer wheels are in adequate shape before towing away your new purchase.


    Finally, assess the lights and ensure that these are all operational before driving off. It is a legal requirement for trailers to have working lights, so you may be risking having your new purchase seized by the police, as soon as you take it on the road if the lights aren’t working.

  • Trailer Lighting Rules, Regulations and Requirements

    Trailer lighting rules, regulations and requirements

    Even if you never make use of your trailer after dark, it is a legal requirement for it to be fitted with appropriate lighting.

    Proper lighting on trailers does far more than simply let other road users see that you are towing a trailer behind your vehicle. Such lighting also makes it far easier for other road users to determine your intentions, such as whether you are slowing down or turning a corner, and can also make it easier to estimate the dimensions of your trailer for safe overtaking.

    Prompt compliance

    As they are so essential to your own safety and that of other road users, it's a good idea to check that the lights on your trailer are working properly before the start of every journey. You can use the same opportunity to check that the lighting cables and plugs are both in good condition.

    If the bulb in one of your trailer lights fails, it must be replaced as quickly as possible. Damage to the housing of trailer lights must also be repaired promptly to ensure you continue to comply with the law.

    What are the requirements?

    The exact requirements vary depending on the size and age of your trailer, according to specifications laid down in the Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989, but as a general rule, all trailers must be fitted with two red stoplights, two red sidelights, an illuminated number plate and two red reflective triangles.

    Trailers also require amber indicators that flash between 60 and 120 times per minute and must feature some means of letting the driving of the towing vehicle know whether or not the trailer indicators are working.

    Arranging lights and reflectors

    If you have built your own trailer or have made adjustments to an existing one, there are strict regulations about the placement of indicators and other lighting elements. For example, indicators need to be a minimum of 350mm but no more than 1500mm from the ground and a maximum of 400mm from the side of the trailer. The minimum allowable distance between indicators is 400mm.

    Trailers need to have a single fog lamp mounted at the rear if they are more than 1.3m wide, but this can be positioned anywhere between the offside edge and the centre point of the trailer. This should be situated a minimum of 100mm from the stop lamp. However, if the vehicle has two fog lamps, these must be separated and fitted to opposite sides of the rear of the trailer. Two lamps are not mandatory, but the regulations state that this is the preferred configuration.

    Reflective rear triangles must be no more than 900mm from the ground and no less than 250mm from the ground with at least 600mm of space in between them. The triangles must be no more than 400mm from the sides of your trailer.

    Number plates

    Trailers manufactured prior to 1st October 1985 do not require illuminated number plates, but all those manufactured after this date do. Ideally, a separate number plate lamp should be used but, in some instances, if a clear window in the rear position lamp has been approved, this can be used instead.

  • How To Replace Trailer Brake Shoes

    How to replace trailer brake shoes

    Trailers which have a maximum gross weight of more than 750kg or which are more than half of the kerb weight of the towing vehicle must be fitted with brakes. A mechanical linkage, activated when a force is detected in the towbar, is used to apply the brakes fitted to a trailer.

    As with all vehicle brakes, proper maintenance is essential if you want to ensure they work as efficiently as possible and comply with the various rules and regulations around braking. Read on for a step-by-step guide to how to replace the brake shoes on your trailer.

    Check the drum

    Begin by placing your trailer onto stands so that all of the wheels are able to turn freely. Ensure the handbrake is locked in the “off” position. Loosen the wheel nuts and remove them, then use the edge of a screwdriver to prise off the hubcap gently.

    Find the brake adjuster. This may be a bolt fitted to the back plate of the brake or it may be a ratchet fitting inside the drum. In the case of the bolt, slacken it off so that it becomes loose but do not remove it completely. In the case of an adjuster inside the drum, you will need to insert a screwdriver through the hole in the back plate to loosen this off.

    The next step is to identify and remove the axle nut. In some instances, this will consist of a simple locknut, but some brake units employ a castle nut which is secured by a split-pin.

    You should then be able to remove the brake drum by turning it first to the left and then to the right while applying gentle pressure to pull it away from the back plate, though ensure you do not interfere either with the brake shoes or bearings at this stage.

    Brake dust is extremely harmful if inhaled so wear a mask if necessary when removing the drum and wipe away any excessive dust build-up with a cloth before proceeding.

    Once the drum is completely free, the condition of the inside should be checked. If the brakes pads have been allowed to wear down too much, there may be score marks around the inside surface of the drum. This can dramatically reduce the efficiency of your brakes, and such a drum should be replaced.

    Remove the brake shoes

    Remove the brake cables and then use a screwdriver as a lever to carefully lift one end of the brake shoe away from the expander. This should then make it possible to remove both the expander and retaining spring of the top brake which in turn will make it possible to lift out the whole brake shoe assembly. Take care not to lose the small adjuster wedges that may become dislodged while the assembly is being removed.

    Carefully check and clean the entire mechanism, noting any damaged or rusty parts that need to be replaced. Pay particular attention to the expander to make sure it swings open freely. If it does not, replace it. Although it may be tempting, avoid using any kind of oil or lubricant on any part of the mechanism as this may seep onto the surface of the brake shoe and prevent them from working properly.

    Fit the new brake shoes and rebuild

    Attach the lower spring to your new brake shoes and place them into the assembly on the back plate. Don’t forget to reattach any adjuster wedges. Next, use a screwdriver as a lever to carefully refit the expander between the brake shoes.

    Before reattaching the brake cables and cover plate, check to see if the cables show any signs of wear or corrosion, replacing them if necessary. The brake drum and bearings can then be replaced and secured with the axle nut. You can then replace your hubcap and wheels.

    Adjusting brakes

    Always ensure your drawbar is fully extended while adjusting brakes as failure to do so with mean your brakes will be incorrectly adjusted when the drawbar is extended during use. You should only rotate your wheels in a forward direction during adjustment as most trailer brakes will lock if you turn them the opposite way.

    Rotate the wheels and tighten the adjuster until you feel the first bite of resistance from the brakes. Then turn the adjuster the opposite way, so the wheel just begins to rotate freely. The nut on the brake rod should then be adjusted to ensure it makes contact with the compensator, but not so much as to cause the brakes to bind and overheat. Ideally, your brake compensator should be at a 90-degree angle to the brake rod and parallel to the brake cable anchor point.

    You can then engage the handbrake and turn the wheels backwards to ensure they lock. If this does not happen, the most likely cause is that you have too much slack in your cables and further adjustment is needed.

    Always remember that new brake shoes take a little while to bed-in and that it’s a good idea to re-check key components such as wheel nuts after an initial short journey to ensure they are correctly fitted.

  • Trailer wheel bearing replacement and fitting guide

    Trailer wheel bearing replacement and fitting guide

    Bearings allow wheels to rotate with a minimal amount of fiction while remaining perfectly centred and aligned on the shaft of the axle to which they are attached. As with other parts of your vehicle, wheel bearings can become damaged or worn out over time, so it is important to ensure they are properly maintained and in good working order.

    How long should my wheel bearings last?

    Wheel bearings should last the life of a vehicle, but factors such as hard driving on rough roads, aggressive cornering or allowing water to enter the bearings due to driving through deep water can significantly shorten the life of your wheel bearings.

    Overloading your trailer, especially if you routinely exceed the maximum weight the trailer is designed to carry, will also shorten the life of your wheel bearings as this will increase the amount of stress being placed on the wheels and axles.

    Another mistake trailer owners often make that can lead to the need for replacement bearings to be fitted is to carry unbalanced loads. This is potentially dangerous as it can lead to a loss of stability while towing but will also damage bearings as the unit on one side of the trailer will be subjected to greater pressure than the other, causing uneven wear.

    Signs that bearings might need to be replaced include humming, growling, grinding or squealing noises that generally increase with the speed of the vehicle.

    How do I fit new bearings?

    After removing the old bearings, check the shaft of the suspension unit to ensure it is clear and free from rust or paint splashes. If the shaft needs cleaning up, this can be achieved by quickly rubbing away any marks with a sheet of sandpaper.

    Ensure you correctly identify which bearings need to be fitted to the front and which ones need to be fitted to the rear. While some rear bearings are supplied with a built-in seal, others have separate seals that need to be gently tapped into place with the help of a rubber mallet.

    The next step is to apply grease to the new bearings to get them ready to fit to the shaft. Although it is a messy job, it is best to do this by hand to ensure every part of the bearing receives an even coating of grease.

    Fit the rear bearing by sliding it onto the shaft with its seal facing towards the suspension unit which means it will be facing outwards from the hub. You should then apply grease to the inside of the hub and slide on the front bearing, ensuring its tapered edge is facing inwards.

    The hub can then be placed onto the shaft, ensuring the wheel nuts are facing outwards. More grease should then be applied to the front bearing before the large washer is placed on top of it,

    After tightening the castle nut to no more than 70Nm, rotate the hub using your hands to help the bearings settle into place. You can then loosen the castle nut and retighten it by hand until there is as little play as possible in the bearings.

    At this stage, the castle nut needs to be turned back just a fraction to reveal the hole through which the split-pin needs to pass. Be careful not to overtighten as this will shorten the life of your bearings. Push through the split-pin and open it up using a screwdriver and small hammer to lock it into place.

    The final step is to fit the cap to the hub. This will help prevent water and dirt from entering your bearings and therefore prolong their useful lifespan.

  • What is type approval?

    What is type approval?

    When it comes to purchasing a trailer, it is essential to ensure the model you purchase is fully type approved. Trailers, vehicles and other products that have been awarded type approval are those which have received official confirmation from a government or other regulatory body that they meet required specifications with regards to safety, performance and other key factors such as security and environmental impact.

    There are three ways in which companies that manufacture trailers are able to acquire type approval for their products.

    ECWVTA - European Community Whole Vehicle Type Approval
    Manufacturers that produce trailers in large numbers are able to apply for ECWVTA.

    In order to comply with the regulations, manufacturers must first obtain approval for the all the components they plan to use in the manufacture of their trailer. Once this has been achieved, it is then possible to seek approval for the entire vehicle. In this way, the process ensure that all the individual components used in the manufacture of a trailer are compatible and applicable for the intended use.

    At each stage of the manufacturing process, a sample of the vehicle is inspected and tested. Successful completion of such tests means manufacturers are then able to obtain a Conformity of Production certificate. Such a certificate means a company is able to provide evidence of its ability to produce multiple units of a product where each one exactly matches the specifications outlined in its approval documentation.

    ECWVTA type approval means a company is able to sell its trailers across Europe without the need for any additional assessments.

    NSSTA - National Small Series Type Approval

    Companies that produce only a small number of trailers can apply for NSS type approval as an alternative to ECWVTA. The advantage of NSSTA is that the technical requirements in some areas are reduced, making this a far more cost-effective method of gaining approval. The conformity of production requirement is also less stringent which suits those companies that manufacture smaller numbers of trailers where a lack of automation means there may be minor differences between each production run.

    As is the case with ECWVTA, once a design has been awarded approval, individual vehicles coming off the production line no longer need to be tested. However, such approval is only valid for trailers that are sold in the UK as the NSSTA standard is not recognised elsewhere in Europe. Another disadvantage of this scheme is that there are strict limits on the number of units a company is able to manufacture each year.

    IVA - Individual Vehicle Assessment

    This UK approval scheme ensures all imported trailers, as well as those manufactured in small numbers, meet the necessary technical requirements for safe use on roads throughout Europe. In order to gain type approval in this way, each trailer needs to be physically inspector by an official from the Vehicle and Operator Service Agency or, in the case of Northern Ireland, an official from the Driver Vehicle Agency.

    As approval is based on individual inspection of each trailer or vehicle, there is no requirement for the manufacturer to obtain a certificate of conformity.

  • What are the Basics of an IVA trailer test?

    What are the Basics of an IVA trailer test?

    If you have built your own trailer from a selection of parts and materials, or imported a single trailer from overseas, you will need to subject it to an Individual Vehicle Approval (IVA) test before it can be used on the roads.

    Whereas trailers that are built in large numbers are approved based on the notion that they have conformity of production and are therefore all manufactured to the same standard, trailers that require an IVA may be subjected to an individual visual inspection by officials from the Driver & Vehicle Standards Agency (DVSA).

    What will the inspection entail?

    The primary role of an IVA inspection is to ensure your trailer does not pose a danger to yourself or anyone else driving the vehicle, or to other road users.

    The specific parts that require inspection vary according to the size and type of trailer but most inspections will include an examination of the general construction of the trailer, its tyres, lights, brakes, statutory plates and rear fog and reversing lamps.

    Do I need to take my trailer apart?

    The IVA test involves a visual inspection of the parts of your vehicle that can be accessed by the inspector without having to dismantle any components. That said, you may be required to open any lockable compartments or lift sections of carpeting to allow for more detailed inspection of individual components.

    In some cases, a visual inspection will not be enough to prove that parts are working correctly. One such example would involve brake cables. In such circumstances, you may be asked to provide a physical demonstration that these parts are working correctly.

    What happens if I fail the test?

    Should your trailer fail to reach the necessary standard, a ‘Notification of Refusal to issue an Individual Vehicle Approval’ certificate will be issued. You will also receive a detailed account of the reasons for the failure, allowing you to address the necessary issues.

    You will then need to make an appointment for the vehicle to be re-examined. This appointment can be made up to 6 months in advance, but as it is a criminal offence to tow a trailer that does not have the correct certification, you will likely want to make your new appointment as quickly as possible. In the event of a failure, you are allowed to drive your trailer to and from an inspection but cannot use it under any other circumstances.

    What is the best way to prepare for an IVA test?

    If you want to ensure your trailer gets through its test without a hitch, it's a good idea to consult the DVLA's own guidance which features the ten most common reasons that trailers, and other vehicles fail their inspections.

    The guide provides clear details about how each item is inspected, what standard each part is judged against and what you should look out for before submitting your vehicle for inspection.

    It should be noted that having a suitable towing vehicle is a part of the test, so make sure you are fully aware of the maximum weights and other regulations surrounded the vehicle of your choice, so you don't stumble at this hurdle.

  • Maximum Trailer Towing Weights

    Maximum Trailer Towing Weights

    Attaching a towbar to your vehicle doesn't mean you can simply hitch up anything you like - there are strict rules and regulations about the weight you are allowed to tow. Sticking to the weight limits does more than ensure you comply with the law - it also reduces the chances of you losing control of your vehicle because of an excessively heavy load.

    How do I know how much weight I can tow?

    The starting point for working out how much weight you can tow is to look at the limitations of the vehicle you intend to drive. Each car manufacturer includes details of the maximum towing capacity in the driver’s manual. A trailer will also be supplied with details of its own maximum authorised mass (MAM).

    If you do not have access to the owner's manual, you should also be able to find a figure for the gross train weight of your vehicle – the maximum allowable weight of your fully-loaded car and trailer - as part of the vehicle identification number (VIN) which should be on a plate under the bonnet or by the driver's door.

    Does my trailer need to have brakes?

    If your trailer weighs more than 750kg or its total mass is more than half the weight of the figure listed as the kerb weight of the car (which you will be able to find in the owner’s manual) then the trailer must be fitted with brakes. Trailers beneath this weight limit do not require brakes.

    How fast can I drive?

    The speed limit when towing a trailer or caravan is slightly lower than that for a vehicle travelling on its own. On single carriageway roads the maximum allowable speed is 50mph while on dual carriageways or motorways, the maximum is 60mph.

    Do I need a special licence?

    The date when you passed your driving test will have a bearing on the amount of weight you are able to tow. If you took your test on or after January 1, 1997, you are able to tow a caravan or trailer with a maximum authorised mass of 750kg, provided the combined mass of the trailer and the vehicle you are driving does not exceed 3,500kg.

    In order to tow a heaving load, you will need to pass the B+E test which tests your ability to control and manoeuvre a car and trailer.

    If you took your driving test prior to 1 January 1997, you will be able to use your vehicle to tow a trailer with a combined maximum weight of 8,250kg or a minibus with a trailer of more than 750kg MAM.

    What if I have an electric vehicle?

    While an increasing number of drivers are making the switch to electric, hybrid or plug-in hybrid vehicles due to concerns about the environment, many are discovering that such a vehicle can be problematic when it comes to towing a trailer.

    The additional weight of the battery packs fitted to fully electric cars substantially reduces the capacity of the vehicle to cope with the additional weight of a trailer. Among the problems most commonly cited are that towing a trailer could put excessive strain on components such as brakes and that the extra energy required could reduce maximum driving range - something which continues to be an issue for manufacturers.

    If you want a vehicle that generates fewer emissions but still has the ability to pull a trailer, opt for a plug-in or fully hybrid vehicle instead.

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